A whirlwind of thoughts… I guess I’ll start chronologically.

We started on the trail around 7:15 after Jess had a somewhat discombobulated morning (contact lens issues, walking in on a woman on the toilet [in my defense, the door was ajar and the light was off], and abdominal discomfort). Spirits were high, and we set off on the last 20 km with a pep in our step.

Rumor had it that from Monte do Gozo, 5 km from the city, pilgrims often sing together as they descend into Santiago. The first 7 km moved past quickly. We stopped at a bar and purchased café so that we could use the restrooms (locked by code!). Around 10 km, the fog set in with a chill. We slowed a bit, but we’re still encouraged.

When we reached Monte do Gozo, I was far from singing. The path signs suddenly diverged from our maps, zig-zagging back toward where we had come. We hiked up and down the same hill twice, when it appears we could have cut through a park – dedicated to pilgrims – and saved ourselves the detour. My mood soured at the apparent tourist trap.

The path signs continued to take us on a convoluted route around Santiago. Our anticipated arrival time of 11 am came and went, as did 12 and 1 pm.

We finally arrived at the plaza to the sound of bagpipe and tambourine around 2 pm. The square was packed with people and… cars. A car show was being held in front of the cathedral. I felt far from pilgrimy.

We dropped to the paving stones in a quiet corner and shared chocolate and gummy worms in celebration of our achievement. I kept scanning the sea of people, looking for familiar faces, with little success. After about an hour, we spent a good chunk of time calling albergues to find accommodations.

After a shower, I felt some better (the sun had come out, too). We headed off to the pilgrim office to receive our certificate of completion, the Compostela. As we reached the office, I spotted the group of crazy Spaniards we had repeatedly encountered all along the Primitivo. After some singing and hugging, they invited us to register together with them as a group, to avoid the line. We were told to return at 7:30, which was the same time as the Spanish mass at the cathedral. We chose to attend the Galician mass at 6:00 instead – I still can’t understand what they’re saying. 😊

The cathedral fits with other Spanish churches, with overpowering displays of ornate decorations that seem to be spilling over one another. There are coin slots EVERYWHERE, without what I consider clear signage indicating what the money is for.

After mass, we met the Spaniards again and received our Compostelas with joy. We gathered for a group photo and bid fins farewells.

After this, the three Camigas went to find food and discovered a vegetarian restaurant tucked away in an alley; not many options beyond seafood and pork otherwise.

Then, bedtime. Glorious bedtime. 🙂

See you in the morning, Santiago!