So many experiences on this trip to share! Here’s one to fill the cracks:

The infrastructure surrounding El Camino de Santiago is immense. There are hotels, hostels, and albergues – refuges – sprinkled all along the routes to Santiago. On our Camino, we have opted to stay in albergues when available, as these are the cheapest accommodations, and are available only to those who have a pilgrim’s credencial; similar to a passport.

We typically arrive in the albergue between 3-5 pm, check in (receive a stamp in our credencial and record our passport information), and find a bed. The facilities range widely, but typically have a large sleeping area of 20-40 bunk beds, shared shower/toilet facilities, and a kitchen.

After checking in and setting up our beds (this usually includes placing the paper sheets and pillow cases on the bare mattress), showers and supper, then kill time until bedtime around 8 or 9. Time killers include journaling, messaging home, massaging and stretching sore muscles, and taping blistered feet.

The beds range from sturdy wooden bunks to squeaky metal frames that make grown men rage when they can’t nap peacefully. Showers usually – but not always – offer hot water, a shower head that is taller than you, and a shower door. But we have had a couple showers with no doors and gym-style shared areas. 😳 Today’s specific shower sported a broken shower head without a wall mount, scalding water with good pressure, and a motion-detecting light that needed stimulation every 45 seconds. I’m a pretty fast showerer, but even I can’t manage that fast.

Kitchens vary widely, from a range and pots/pans and dishes, to a sink with table and single spoon. The government-run “Xunta” facilities we’ve preferred in Galicia boast large kitchens with completely bare cupboards; the last Xunta offered one butter knife, two plates, and one mug for a building housing 125. I’m grateful Julia suggested we bring our own spoons and Tupperware.

Oh, yes! Laundry. Most pilgrims have only 1-2 sets of clothing, so laundry is a daily task. Some of the nicer albergues offer washing machines and dryers, but these cost 3-5€ a piece; expensive on a pilgrim budget. Let’s just say I’ll be very happy to be done washing socks and underwear in the sink.

Albergue special items! These are the things that make us super excited and feel spoiled, but are few and far between:

• A bar of soap left at the laundry sink
• Hot water machine for drinks
• Hand soap in the bathrooms
• Liquid soap for the shower!!
• TOWELS
• WiFi
• Vending machines
• Spices in the kitchen
• Laundry lines outside, but under cover from rain

Final word: Pilgrims of the world, take note – ear plugs are the most essential packing item. 🙂