Sunday, August 4
Early start today, with a push up the ridge to reach Timberline Lodge for their hiker infamous all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet. I made it by 8:15 after climbing the last mile up glacial silt similar to a sand dune, but with a view of Mt Hood (swoon 😍) in the background. The food was DELICIOUS. I was only able to down two helpings of potatoes and eggs, a scoop of melon, a smoothie, granola with berry yogurt, a walnut cranberry pancake, two pastries, a slice of blueberry bread, and some raspberries before my stomach swelled to discomfort. I sat at the table for nearly an hour chatting with other hikers before finally admitting there was no more room at the gastric inn. I enjoyed a creek shower in the portapotty style hose shower set up in the parking lot by the lodge for use by hikers; creature comforts!
Then, the real treat of the day; visitors! Mom’s cousin and her son drove up from Salem to meet us at the lodge, bearing sweet gifts of fresh fruit, salad, cookies, and chocolate – a true hiker’s dream. Even sweeter was the delightful visit we had, overlooking Mt Hood to the north and Mt Jefferson to the south. What a delight!

We lounged in the lodge, charging phones and waiting out the afternoon sun, finally tackling a few miles of downhill before bed at the top of a ridge below Mt Hood (e.g. beautiful sunset!). Under 60 miles to go!

Monday, August 5
A warm, gentle breeze rocked our tent through the night and into the morning. We broke down camp and descended into Zigzag Canyon to make ourselves an oatmeal breakfast, then I traipsed upstream to check out Zigzag Falls. You’re beautiful, Oregon!

We opted to take the Paradise Loop alternate route for a bit more elevation and views, and I dripped sweat all the way up the mountainside. Little did I know that was just the beginning of the sweat…
Paradise Park was BREATHTAKING. We climbed just above the tree line, into a lush grassy meadow bursting with wildflowers. I was nearly giggling with delight as we passed waist-deep through flowers, hopped over clear, babbling brooks, and gawked at Mt Hood just above. It was a highlight of the entire trip, to be sure. Would recommend!

We then descended back into the trees, an enchanted old growth forest of firs and cedars, with all shades of green, dappled in golden sunshine. We descended, and descended, and descended, finally reaching the Sandy River and some more lush scenery 3000 feet below. The day was waxing hotter and more humid, but we had a lunch spot in mind, so we pressed on.
We reached Ramona Falls at 2:00, famished and eager to sit in the cool breeze at the base of the falls. Couscous never tasted so good!

We reluctantly got back to the trail 1.5 hours later, walking slowly in an attempt to keep the sweat at bay. But then another uphill slog, climbing 1500 feet on a ragged incline up Bald Mountain; I struggled to keep my core temp down as my clothes grew wetter and wetter, the humidity stifling – it was not very fun. Halfway up the slope, we found a log to sit on, alternating between fanning ourselves and swatting flies. Bethani claims she had “twelve confirmed kills”, but she was the one confirming her own record. I’d give her five. 😉
When we finally reached the top, the trail followed the pattern of the day by quickly diving back down 1000 feet to Lolo Pass, where we met some fellow NOBO section hikers at a campsite, eventually peeling ourselves from the picnic table to carry on to the stream for water. Tentsites were full at the spring, so we kept climbing the hill until the sweetest sight of flat, open ground greeted us 1.5 miles along. Some instant mashed potatoes and various chocolate snacks later, plus a double wet wipe bird bath (I hung my shirt on a bush, couldn’t even bear to have it in the tent), and we crashed for the night around hiker midnight (9 pm).
What a day!! 4500 feet down, 3000 feet up, 16.5 miles, and loads of views.

Tuesday, August 6
Most of this morning was spent bushwhacking through overgrown trail as we skirted around Hiyu Mountain. I had struggled mightily at camp to slide my damp-with-sweat shirt back on over my head, but thankfully today’s shaded trail provided a bit less sweatiness to the day’s endeavors. The trail meandered over small ridges, finally finding openings in the forest for a couple more looks at My Hood (autocorrect from Mt Hood, but still accurate).

Our original plan had included a rendezvous at Lost Lake campground with Bethani’s family, but campground reservations stymied our itinerary, so we pushed on to Wahtum Lake. I looked the part of a 4-year-old much of the afternoon as my frequent huckleberry snacking was belied by blue-stainer lips and teeth. The biggest downside of walking downhill is the distance you have to stoop for berries.
I cruised into camp around 5pm, dropped my pack and kept tromping due to tales of a vault/pit toilet at the campground up the hill. Freed from the weight of my bag, I ran sections of the trail, regretting my decision when I reached the steep stairclimb to the campground. When I got back to my bag nearly a mile later, I was plastered with sweat again; perfect time for a lake shower! I skirted my way around the blue crawdads and dunked in the refreshing lake, then carried water up the hill to do some legitimate backcountry laundering (with soap, because STANK is reigning free). I overestimated my laundress skills, as washing shirts and pants in a 1 liter/quart pot is harder than it might seem. But I got 3 potfuls of dark brown water out of my laundry load and into my sump hole (dug in the ground to keep gray water from polluting pure sources), and my shirt no longer requires breath-holding during donning.

Now, to eat our remaining rations as we eagerly await the arrival of the Kings; woohoo!

Wednesday, August 7
Zero days are an interesting thing. Resting and letting aching body parts recover is so very enticing, but killing time sitting in one place is a bit tricky. It’s as if we’ve forgotten how to leisure!
Alan came walking by just before noon, and as we were chatting I heard my name yelled from the top of the ridge – Kings have arrived! We were treated to a spread of bread(!!), hummus, sandwich fillings and giant blueberries. YUM. Plus, they brought my “normal life” suitcase, which included my swimsuit! As much as I’ve appreciated my sports bra bikini, I’m happy to let it stay dry 🙂

Paddleboards and inner tubes were enjoyed for the afternoon, then more food around a campfire. Mmmmmm good. Mist rolled in from over the lake with an ominous wind, and we took a hiker midnight bedtime at 9pm after some stories around the campfire. Ahhhhh yes; car camping luxury!