Our two-hour transit from Hiroshima to Onomichi progressed without fanfare – actually, the exceptionally quiet train ride I’ve grown to expect in Japan was a delight, flowing smoothly through rice paddies and forested mountainsides. The train would have rocked me to sleep had I not been enraptured by the scenery. 🤩

We found a Yamato Transport shop in Onomichi and shipped our luggage to our hotel 3 days away. I was nervously delighted to carry just a 12 liter day pack out of the shop, trusting its contents were enough for 3 days of bicycling in southern Japan. My delight was soon superseded by the discovery of a bakery and purchase of a cheese bagel. Have I shared that my appetite and Japanese cuisine don’t mesh perfectly? My Scandinavian soul was so happy to find bread.

Nancy and I got our rental bikes (upgraded to e-bikes: best decision) and strapped our bags down before heading to the ferry across the river. We were riding by noon, following the 3-inch blue line tracing the 70+ kilometer bike trail over six islands and seven bridges. Ikuchi Island, the third of our island stops, was our home for the first night. We each experienced exuberant delight at this first evening bike stay at Bonapool Rakuseien: Nancy was enamored by the hostel design, and I by the cucumber, baguette and cheese I found at the local grocery store.

I woke up before the sun – remarkable when dawn breaks at 4:30am – and listened from the patio to the raucous dawnsong of birds ready to greet the day. Their exuberance drew me outside to chase the sunrise, strolling down the quiet side streets of a sleeping seaside town. I wandered alongside fishing and touring vessels, a shipping harbor, and multiple statues of the strange but endearing tanuki (raccoon dog). I clambered over a waterbreak and down the steps to the river at low tide, marveling at the green algae growing on every wet surface. It beckoned me to take a closer look… by removing all friction from beneath my feet and pulling me suddenly to the rocky floor, tailbone first. What a way to wake up!

After a nap and breakfast, we indulged in a slow morning with plenty of stops for pictures: bright sun shining on sparkling seas begs for nothing less. On the beautiful white sands of Sunset Beach, we enjoyed broken conversation with a local farmer named Koge with his gifts of homegrown citrus – something like a pummelo – which he eagerly showed us how to peel and eat, to his great satisfaction.

We finished our near-circumnavigation of Ikuchi Island and wound our way up the access path to Tatara Bridge, stopping on our journey across the 1.5 km causeway to evoke the roar of the dragon, a fascinating acoustic effect caused by the arching support columns.

We settled into our ryokan on Omishima Island after a 27-kilometer day, enjoying green tea while wearing yukata and slippers, sitting on the tatami mat floor. Supper was a mishmash of ramen, ice cream, and a bag of shredded cabbage with dressing from the local convenience store. We enjoyed our luxury meal with a view of the sunset over the sea, watching the tide come in while talking about life and its joys and challenges. Of all the glorious things I experienced in Japan, this was one of the greatest. ❤️

Our third and final day on the Shinanami Kaido boasted a 35 kilometer bike ride over the four remaining bridges, bringing us to Imabari. Fueled by lemon ice cream, the scent of mandarin blossoms, and forested bike paths, we made it to the Imabari station with ample time to recombobulate before nearly 5 hours of travel to Nara by bus (our seatmate Adam was memorable – unfortunately), train, Shinkansen, and subway. I had barely enough energy to peel myself out of my travel clothes and hit the shower before bed. What an adventure!